Si Satchanalai Historical Park

Si Satchanalai Historical Park is located on the bank of the Yom River. It is open daily between 8.30 a.m.-4.30 p.m. Admission is 40 baht, and they offer a useful map and pamphlet for 5B

Ancient Si Satchanalai developed between the Yom River and the Khao Phra Si Valley, on more than 320 hectares (800 acres) of land. The 91 hectares (228 acres) contained within the old laterite ramparts and moats of the city wall are the focus of sightseeing in the historical park and are best reached as a day trip from Sukhothai.
Taking Route 101 north from Sukhothai through sugarcane and tobacco fields, one must cross the Yom River to enter the historical park’s central city. The remains of the 22 monuments inside the old city rank well below those of Sukhothai in importance, yet the crumbling grandeur of the buildings and the relative isolation of the site add to its allure.

A taxi, private car, or guided tour is the best way to see the spread-out sites of Si Satchanalai. Your hotel or guesthouse can arrange this trip for around 500B. However, public buses to Si Satchanalai depart every half-hour from the bus stop on Jarodvithitong Road just east of the traffic circle for 18B. It’s not a bad idea to have your hotel or guesthouse make you a Paddington Bear “I am lost” tag saying where you’d like to go. I recommend stopping near the cable bridge some 2km from the site. From here, you can rent a bicycle for 30B per day. If you carry-on up the road, you can enter at the front gate of the park and rent bicycles (better quality ones in fact) but the ride across the bridge and along the river is a joy. Wat Mahatat is located just across the bridge and they will ask for a 10B entrance fee. If you don’t want to visit, feign ignorance and cycle-on.

Enterprising locals have organized an elephant ride around the park (three passengers fit in the howdah, one rides the neck, and the mahout sits on the head). It costs 100B per person for 30 minutes.

Seeing the Highlights

Phra Si Rattana Mahathat Temple also called Phra Borommathat Muang Chaliang Temple or Phra Prang Temple, is situated 3 kilometres to the south of ancient Si Satchanalais wall. An immense laterite prang on a square base marks the centre of the temple. A steep staircase in front of the huge prang leads to a room where a reliquary is enshrined.

Khao Phanom Phloeng Temple is a hilltop temple within the old town of Si Satchanalai. A laterite chedi in the centre, a large viharn or image hall in front, and a small sanctuary behind all lie in ruins. Some laterite pillars and a damaged Buddhas’ image constructed of laterite slabs and coated with mortar are seen.

Khao Suwan Khiri Temple is also a hilltop temple situated 200 metres away from Phanom Phloeng Hill. A huge bell-shaped chedi on a 5-tiered base marks the centre of the temple. Ruins of a viharn and chedi, and fragments of huge stucco figures lie scattered on the ground. The similarity between some figures here and those at Wat Chang Lom in the old town of Sukhothai leads to the belief that it was King Ramkhamhaeng the Great of the Sukhothai Kingdom who had this temple constructed.

Chang Lom Temple is an important monument within the old town of Si Satchanalai. A huge bell-shaped chedi supported by 39 elephants, with 4 of them at 4 cardinal points elaborately decorated, marks the centre of the temple. Above the chedis base, there are niches enshrining images of the Buddha subduing Mara.

Chedi Chet Thaeo Temple is one of the most beautiful temples in Sukhothai Province. Chedis of different artistic styles and influence were built within the area of this temple. Mural paintings, seriously damaged, are still to be seen in some chedis.

Suan Kaeo Utthayan Yai Temple is located near Wat Chedi Chet Thaeo with only a dirt road in between. A large image hall lies in remains within this temple. The monastery is also called Wat Kao Hong or the 9 roomed temple.

Nang Phaya Temple is famous for its delicate stucco reliefs on the remains of the northwestern wall of the 7 roomed viharn or image hall. The pillars of this viharn are decorated with unglazed ceramic designs. The central laterite chedi is surrounded by lampposts and accessible by a set of narrow stairs.

Suan Kaeo Utthayan Noi Temple is the only temple within the old town of Si Satchanalai with a brick building in front. The ruins of this temple consist of a whole laterite image hall with a laterite roof.

Sights Outside the Historical Park

Private transport will enable you to wander at will around the hundreds of archaeological sites and kilns that dot the landscape. Wat Khao Phanom Ploeng, a nearby hill topped by two wat compounds, offers an excellent vantage of the historic city from the top of its steep 112-step staircase. The hill overlooks a large grove of trees that are sanctuary to a group of white cranes.